Danby Kegerator Improvements

[cv420]

As far as I can tell, the wiring diagram is the same. I will try to find a camera and post some pictures.

[psychodad]

Has anyone played with the Danby fan? When I blow off my keg next week, I plan on opening the tower opening as far as it can go and adding a blower to cool the tower. What I noticed today, is that the original Danby fan seems to be set up to blow cold air into an opening on the side of the box rather than blowing air around the cabinet. Has anyone checked to see where this air blows out? Obviously with my setup, the fan only runs when I first plug it in after cleaning my lines and defrosting, but I'm half curious as to where Danby inteded the air to go.

[chadschloss78]

I took the little 12V muffin fan out of mine today to see what you were talking about. I just see a slight recess into a plastic hole, maybe ment to hold the wire connector.. As for enlarging the hole, I used a 3" hole-saw. It will be difficult to do it like that without a jig. I used (2) 1/2" boards sandwhiched together, drilled my 3" hole in it, then centered it on over the orig. hole, drilled holes where the tower sits to hold the jig in place and it seemed to work out great. As to drilling the hole in the plastic top, you can put the top back on and screw your jig back on and cut from the top down, or set the top in place and cut from the bottom up without using the jig. As for what to use inplace of the danby plastic thing that goes to the tower, I made one using a 3" aluminum duct connector and some electrical fixture box/thing that had the same diameter. I cut the two tabs out that were inside it with a dremel and slid that in place. The aluminum will be about an inch or so too long, so I just used some nippers and cut slits around the edges and folded them back. Then I caulked the opening around the bottom and made a rubber gasket to set ontop of the new sleeve. Here are some pics.

[chadschloss78]

More Pics:

[psychodad]

Yup... The more I look at that the more I need to do that. I know my keg is going to blow this week and I won't have time to replace it, but maybe I will havfe time to get it ready for some Fat Tire or Boulevard.

[clubchad]

It says that the blower here must be hard wired for electricity. This may sound stupid, but how do i do that?

Thanks

[psychodad]

Hard wired means that there is a permanent connection. Not simply plugged in. Your ceiling fan is hardwired, your table lamp is not.

[scrap83072]

Does anybody have any idea if the blower everyone is using is rated for continuous duty? I'm wondering if you need the blower on constantly? Could you actually use the Danby controls/sensor to cycle the blower only? Maybe run that sensor to the tower? I dont know if this would still be to warm for the tower or not. This also assumes use of the new controller to control the compressor.

[psychodad]

Those same shaded pole blowers run for years in harsh, hot and dirty industrial environments. The innards of a kegerator is going to be the happiest place one of them could ever hope to live. I'd let it run continuous.

[cv420]

Ok,

So I made the suggested modifications and have been using my unit for over a month now. At first, the unit worked fine and was able to keep the temperature around 35 degreese. Lateley the beer has started to foam again and I checked the temperature on my Brewers Edge Temp Controller and it said 44 degrees.

It appears that the compressor is running all the time and it cannot reach temperatures below 44. Has anyone else seen this problem or know how to fix it. Perhaps I need a defrost cycle? I did defrost the back cooling plate with hot water, but I didn't have time to do an entire unit defrost. I don't want to burn out my compressor. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

[psychodad]

You need to completely defrost the thing. Do it every time you clean your lines and the buildup will not get that bad. Also keep the door shut as much as possible.

[beerangel]

Stop Spending Time, Money, Nerves Etc...
Your Danby Kegerator Only Needs A Minor Modification, If So, Just Extend The Wire Of The Sensor And Stick It On Top (preferably Toward The Door) And That's All...
This Is All A Great Guy Called "david", At Danby Would Suggest...and It Only Works Great.
But Don't Look No More To Your Digital Temp Display, To Read Temp Put One Inside On The Bottom. Thank You Dave

[kujosp]

Thanks for getting this forum going its been real interesting!! I got started today and have installed the resistor and will be installing the blower shortly. BeerAngel, you go ahead and listen to David from Danby and these guys here will continue to come up with creative and interesting ways to improve the Danby.

[jcomp5150]

I just wanted to let you guys know that I have done most of the mods talked about on this board and I think the one that made the biggest differance to me was when I changed out the coupler that goes to the keg, I think the junk one that came from danby was not working right and the beer was getting too much CO2 somehow. But now that everything has been changed out to micromatic the system seems to work alot better.

[Filch]

okay, I think have the tower assembly bit down. Thanks for the write-up chadschloss78. I do have a couple questions though. What did you make your rubber gasket out of? Is it just a square rubber piece that you cut out?

Also, I'm going to be running flexible aluminum air ducting from the blower to the new 3" hole to the tower. What would be the best method for attaching that to the hole, and allowing air to be able to flow back out. The smallest diameter ducting I can get is 3 inch. On the inside, how are you you attaching the duct to the electrical socket you retro-fitted. How do you keep it from sliding up or down?

And finally, how is the blower to be connected to the power supply. My Danby has the controller on the back of the unit by the drip tray. I am not currently using any after-market temp control so the danby still controls it's own compressor.

[Filch]

I went to two homestores today and neither of them have 3 inch duct connectors. They have them in 4 inch, but not 3 :-p

I couldn't find that electrical fixture you used either. I don't know what it's called and the store people looked at me like I was crazy trying to explain what it was.

Where did you happen to get these items?

[mccullpl]

I wandered around Menards trying to find something 3" ID to used for the tower. I ended up buying a section of 3" ID PVC pipe. OD is 3.5". To get it to seal up on the bottom, try to keep the hole you make a pretty snug fit, allow a ~1/4" to extend into the kegerator, and run a bead of silicone around it.

Hope this helps,
Pat

[STPour]

Great articles and pics. I just joined this forum, and am glad to see your posts. My Danby is in need of the same modifications. Thanks for your posts and pics.

[Filch]

I got my blower fan connected to continuous power, thanks to a little help from Psychodad. My board is located in the back, not on the top, like some of the older models. It was a simple task of taking the tower and the top off, drilling a hole through the plastic tube, running the wires through the hole and down the back of fridge. I didn't have to drill any holes through the fridge itself, great!

My blower didn't come with a bracket like the others I've seen in the pics. So mine is just sitting in the corner. I'm getting a little vibration noise outside the fridge, but nothing major. Right now I'm just using 1" plastic tubing up to the tower hole, attached via duct tape . I'll get more elaborate and permanent once I find the right pieces I need to drill a 3" hole.

For now though, my Danby is running at 30 - 34 degrees measured from the top of the keg by an indoor/outdoor digital thermometer from the home store. No more foamies... except for a tiny bit at my first pour. I'm very happy.

Thanks everyone for the help.

[billbird2111]

These are interesting improvements to the Danby Kegerator, which looks very much like my POS Avanti.

I notice the hole drilled into the back of the unit just underneath where the CO2 line goes in. My Avanti line is almost exactly in the same place, by I'm scared to DEATH that I'll drill into something important if I try to make a new hole for the thermostat line!

Also, I notice a number of improvements inside the unit that would be impossible with the Avanti. Look, my unit is barely big enough to handle a single 1/2 keg of beer. If I tried putting fans and other crap in there -- well it would fit -- but no keg would!

I can't even so much as fit a Coors Keg in my Avanti unit now, because those wide bands prevent the standard Coors keg from fitting! Those wide bands exist on the 1/2 and 1/4 kegs -- and the Avanti just won't take them, unless I crush the plastic on the inside of the unit, which I don't want to really do!

Still -- nice photos!

Bill

[missing link]

I bought an older Danby that doesn't have the digital control. Mine will get well below 40, in fact I am struggling to get it set right. If I turn it down ever so slightly, it gets below 32. If I turn it up just a little, it gets up to 41 or 42 degrees.

I may have to switch to an external temp controller.

Besides the temp fluctuation, my regulator creeps bad.

I ordered a new faucet, new regulator and I plan to cut the hole under the tower to the same diameter as the ID of the tower. Then when I move the kegerator under my bar, I am going to try to add a fan.

So far I get lots of foam with a little bit of tasty beer. I'm hoping to get more tasty beer and less foam.

[cv420]

You need to completely defrost the thing. Do it every time you clean your lines and the buildup will not get that bad. Also keep the door shut as much as possible.

I defrosted my danby kegerator for 24 hours. When I turned it back on, the temperature went to 32 degrees without anything in the kegerator so I figured I would try another keg. I put a 16 gallon keg in last night and checked the temperature this morning and it is at 44 degrees and does not get any lower.

Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what may be wrong??? I am getting frusterated with this thing as I have about $750 into it and all it does is produce foamy beer. Worst of all, I can't take it back because I have drilled a hole through it and traded the CO2 tank out! Thanks for any help.

[stemikel]

Make sure that the ice has not re-accumulated on the cooling plate and then ensure that the door is sealed properly. Slide a small piece of paper like a dollar bill between the door and the box. There should be some resistance. Perhaps the seal or hinge is not properly aligned, allowing warm air in.

[cv420]

Make sure that the ice has not re-accumulated on the cooling plate and then ensure that the door is sealed properly. Slide a small piece of paper like a dollar bill between the door and the box. There should be some resistance. Perhaps the seal or hinge is not properly aligned, allowing warm air in.

Thank you for the suggestions. There isn't any re-accumulated ice on the cooling plate as I let it defrost again for 24 hours before I put the new keg in.

I also checked the door and it seems to be making a good seal.

When I did the modifications, I cut through some of the insulation foam on the top of the unit, but later found out my control board was on the lower back end since I had a newer unit. Anyway, I put the foam back as best I could and the kegerator worked fine with my first two kegs so I don't think this is the issue. Perhaps I will buy some of the spray insulation and redo that section and see if that helps.

I appreciate the input. Any other ideas? Thanks.

[cv420]

Well, after thinking real hard and then hitting myself for being stupid, I moved the kegerator inside and it works fine now. The temperature in my garage was about 95 to 105 degrees F. I guess it just couldn't keep up with the hot exterior temperature. Anyway, now I get to have my kegerator inside! Thanks for all the help.

[h8harleys]

I had verfied the internal temp of my Danby with a thermometer. There is a 5-7 degree difference than what its actually telling you its at. All I did was put insulated tape around the thermostat. Now I got 35 degree beer. As for the foam, I think this is from what is sitting in the line. After a half hour or so. I am going to try and shorten the line. Untill then I guess I just have to drink faster. That seems to help with the foam.

[lunkhead]

As for the foam, I think this is from what is sitting in the line. After a half hour or so. I am going to try and shorten the line. Untill then I guess I just have to drink faster. That seems to help with the foam.

Don't shorten the line. You need to cool the tower. Do a "search forum" for tower cooling

[flint9824]

I am not very mechanical able. The improvements you did to your kegerator looked pretty complex and I have trouble with simple jobs. How advanced is this really? I am tired of foam but no sure I have the skills to pull it off

[psychodad]

Perhaps you have a buddy that is electrically and mechanically inclined that wants to help you enjoy your beer.

[flint9824]

Psychodad,
Do you have a list of what items you used? I have seen the link for the blower but not for the new temperature control device. I think I could get some help but can't see exactly what you used to make the Danby work.

[psychodad]

The link for the temperature control is: Grainger Industrial Supply: Ventilation Control 2E728

Although a Brewers Best temperature control would work very well also. There are many different blowers out and about and everything else is simple Home Depot type items.

[aceuass]

Psychodad,
Do you have a list of what items you used? I have seen the link for the blower but not for the new temperature control device. I think I could get some help but can't see exactly what you used to make the Danby work.

Heres what I used
FAN USED 115VAC 4.7"SQ.-MPJA, Inc.

24VDC 5" BLOWER-MPJA, Inc.
I used a plug-in 12 vdc source,I had laying around,I think it powered an old modem,1/2" pvc pipe directed up tower,did not need to open the tower hole as the pvc and the 2 lines I have all fit and the tower cooling works great,my kegerator was outside the whole summer (live in Chicago) and I never had a problem.
Paul

Brewers edge controller-http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/kegerator-conversion-kits-pid-E54.html

There are other temp controllers out there

[Fabulousj79]

Thanks to everyone for the great information on making the Danby unit useful!
I went to Radio Shack over the weekend and picked up a pack of 10k resistors (they didn't have a single 33k). I sodered 3 of them together and placed it in parallel with the temp sensor, extended the wiring and placed the sensor in a cup of water on top of the keg.

I am now getting 33F inside, and the beer temp is 37F! I am now getting perfect pours after the first and Sam Adams tastes just like it does at the bar!

I'm planning on doing the blower mod next week!

[lunkhead]

!
I went to Radio Shack over the weekend and picked up a pack of 10k resistors (they didn't have a single 33k). I sodered 3 of them together and placed it in parallel with the temp sensor,

I am now getting 33F inside, and the beer temp is 37F! I am now getting perfect pours after the first and Sam Adams tastes just like it does at the bar!

I'm planning on doing the blower mod next week!

F.Y.I. The 30k that your using will make the unit run even cooler, so keep an eye on it. Shouldn't freeze the beer but in a few days the beer may be too cold. Just bump the temp up a degree or 2 on the danby.

[Fabulousj79]

Absolutely! I installed a digital thermometer I bought from Home Depot that has an external sensor, and I went out for a few hours after the mod, and when I came back, the digital thermometer was reading 19 Degrees! I opened the door and found the thermometer I had in the water on top of the keg right at 33, but I turned the Danby display temp down to 43 and it works great! The water temp in the cup is around 33, and the beer in the glass after a pour was 36-37. I might attempt the tower cooling mod this weekend.

I'm an auto mechanic by trade, and I know that antifreeze under pressure changes freezing and boiling temperatures. Do you think the pressure on the Keg would keep it from freezing at 32?

Last Saturday, a friend of mine came over and I got completely hammered. I vaguely remember throwing up before I went to bed - something I haven't done in a long time! - and that was before the mod! lol I love this freakin thing! Tomorrow night should be interesting..lol

[lunkhead]

30k should not let your danby get to 19 degrees. Are you sure you put 3ea 10k in series (for 30k total) in parallel with the sensor. Even the 24k that I tested with at first would only get the unit down to 24 deg. Beer under pressure does not freeze until about 28-29 degrees, I think, but if your going to try and get the beer that cold you may want to turn down the pressure or you'll over carbonate it.

[Fabulousj79]

The sensor for the digital thermometer is ran through the back of the unit where the co2 line is supposed to run through and it hangs about 6" down, so I think it was reading air temperature at 19. The thermometer that I have sitting in the cup of water always reads 30-33 - I have the digital display on the Danby set at 41.

[lunkhead]

Sounds like the temp sensor for your digital is a little too close to the cooling plate, makes sense to me now.

[gravymaker]

I've modded my Danby with the Brewers Edge II external control, and bypassed the autodefrost function.

Should I still add the 33K ohm resister to the Danby built-in probe? Will that help make the built-in digital readout on the front of the fridge more accurate?

[lunkhead]

There's no need to add the 33k resistor with an external control. It will make the temp reading even more inaccurate. I have bought an external Johnson Controls temp controller for my danby and will be trying to install it within a couple weeks. Tired of fighting the defrost cycle. I'm going to try and recalibrate the temp sensor then to give a more accruate temp reading. I'll post what I come up with.