Beer Forum

RickDel · #1 (**permalink**) 05-29-2008, 12:18 PM

1) What setting are you guys using with your Brewers Edge/A419 temp controller? I want my beer to be very cold, but I'm a little confused with the settings (Setpoint, Differential, Anti-short Cycle Delay, Temp Offset, Sensor Failure).
Answered by Bgrant on another forum:
A419 set to Cut in at setpoint mode (when the temperature rises to the set point it will cut in)
(SP) Set my setpoint to 38 (in theory the hottest it should get in the freezer)
(Dif) My Differential set to 4 (power will be on until the temp drops to 34)
(ASD) Anti-short cycle set to 5 (once the A419 shuts off, it will not come on for 5 minutes regardless of temp)
(OFS) Offset left at 0, not using the binary input so no need.
(SF) Set it to 1 so if the sensor fails, power will remain on.

2) What are you using to mount your Dayton Blower to the inside wall of freezer? What type of bracket?
Also Answered by Bgrant - though I doubt I'm allowed to post links to other sites

3) Should I get a small 80mm or 120mm fan to circulate the air? If so, how should I mount it? I like this one, but not sure what the mount is, maybe a heatsink. What do you think??????

4) Any suggestions on what hose or tubing to use with my Dayton? And how can I attach it to the blower (other then tape)?
Here's two different types of adapters, what are they and where do I get them?
Got the adaptor in the second picture at Lowes for $2 - thanks Skinsfan1311

5) I'll be running a 6' remote dispenser, what insulation works best? Is this type better then the foam rubber stuff:

6) I'll also have a strange twisted "S" bend, so I'm assuming I can't do it with PVC. Should I use metal flex tubing. From what I've read, it's not as good of an insulator as PVC, so should I only do that "S" bend with metal tubing and the rest with PVC, or just do the entire thing with metal?

7) And lastly, I noticed a lot of condensation in my freezer now that my Brewers Edge is working at a temp that causes it to frost and thaw continuously. Do I need to seal my freezer corners/seals with caulk to prevent rust? Is there anything else that needs to be done?
going to seal all seams with clear silacone

Help with ANY ONE of these questions is GREATLY appreciated!!! Thank You.

***It's not my intent to offend MicroMatic, the moderator, or anyone reading this forum, but I realize some of the items I'm requesting suggestions on can be purchased at MircoMatic; although, I'm looking for some alternate solutions. I have supported MircoMatic and bought all my major parts from them, so I don't think asking of alternate ideas on smaller items such as tubing, insulation, and a blower bracket should be a problem. However, if it is I apologize and please remove the post.

Thanks Again

Skinsfan1311 · #2 (**permalink**) 05-29-2008, 05:23 PM

I'm partial to the picture #3, as that's a pic of the blower in my kegerator

I found the identical blower, and bracket, that MM sells, for much less in the Grainger catalog. It's probably cheaper becauser Grainger is a HUGE industrial supply company.

I took the blower with me to Lowes, and went to the plumbing aisle and looked through fittings until I could find one that would fit the exhaust hole. Notice how one end is barbed, to facilitate pushing the tube over it?

The threaded end fit perfectly in the hole of the blower. In fact, I just hand-tightened, then cinched down with a pair of pliers.

After that, I went to the aisle that sells vinyl tubing, and found one that would fit snugly over the barbed end. The fitting was cheap, (a couple of bucks maybe?), and the tubing was something like $.36 per foot.

RickDel · #3 (**permalink**) 05-29-2008, 08:04 PM

Skinsfan1311, Thanks for the reply.... I'm curious, does your blower have a threaded exhaust hole or did you just force it in tight enough to stay? I have the newer model 12cfm blower, 1TDN2, and it's NOT threaded.

What'd you use for a bracket/mount for the Dayton?

Skinsfan1311 · #4 (**permalink**) 05-30-2008, 04:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickDel

Skinsfan1311, Thanks for the reply.... I'm curious, does your blower have a threaded exhaust hole or did you just force it in tight enough to stay? I have the newer model 12cfm blower, , and it's NOT threaded.

What'd you use for a bracket/mount for the Dayton?

The exhaust hole is not threaded, but the fitting is tight enough to stay. I started it hand-tight, then I took a wrench and put a turn on it.

I compared the specs of your newer model, to mine, and the exhaust outlets have the same diameter, (1 1/4").

There is a bracket made specifically for the Dayton blower. You should be able to check the Grainger web-site, or call them and tell them the model blower that you have and they should be able to hook you up. I strongly suggest the bracket, as it makes the installation quite easy.

Good luck, and don't forget to post pics after you're done!

bg44 · #5 (**permalink**) 05-30-2008, 05:59 AM

I don't have anything to add as far as help but what are the chances of you posting a picture of the other side of the wall where your taps are. Just curious to see your setup!

RickDel · #6 (**permalink**) 05-30-2008, 12:19 PM

Quote:

what are the chances of you posting a picture of the other side of the wall

Not yet... I'm waiting for my bar rail to come in before we epoxy the top, then we're going to drill a hole in the top of the bar for a remote dispense tower. As soon as I get a couple answers on the above questions, I'll be running my lines. I'll get a couple pics up ASAP.

Are you planning to run yours to a tower or a faucet mounted to the wall? I know where there's a couple pics of that here on the forum.

RickDel · #7 (**permalink**) 05-31-2008, 12:02 PM

Skinsfan1311, went to Lowes and found that fitting for the exhaust in about 2 minutes, but then I spent an hour looking for a treaded flange to mount to the exhaust. I figured I could probably get a nice tight seal with a flange (guess that's what you call it) and a gasket; however, I couldn't find anything to work. Looks like I'm going to just be forcing it in the exhaust hole like you did.

By the way, the tubing was $1.39 a foot!!! Salesman said he sold more then ever yesterday, because the race is in town (Dover Downs) and everyone's using them for beer bongs.

Skinsfan1311 · #8 (**permalink**) 05-31-2008, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickDel

Skinsfan1311, went to Lowes and found that fitting for the exhaust in about 2 minutes, but then I spent an hour looking for a treaded flange to mount to the exhaust. I figured I could probably get a nice tight seal with a flange (guess that's what you call it) and a gasket; however, I couldn't find anything to work. Looks like I'm going to just be forcing it in the exhaust hole like you did.

By the way, the tubing was $1.39 a foot!!! Salesman said he sold more then ever yesterday, because the race is in town (Dover Downs) and everyone's using them for beer bongs.

LOL!! Beer Bongs!

Don't sweat forcing it into the hole. If you re-read my post, I didn't mention a flange, I just forced that bad-boy into the hole and put a couple of turns on it.

It'll work just fine.

$1.39 may be correct, and is probably what I paid. It's been over a year since I did the mod, and my memory ain't what it used to be

Sorry 'bout that!

RickDel · #9 (**permalink**) 05-31-2008, 05:08 PM

Skinsfan1311, it does seem to be a tight fit when I twisted it in the hole....

One more question, what did you do to your blower? It looks like you cut those two extra wires and capped them?

Skinsfan1311 · #10 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 04:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickDel

Skinsfan1311, it does seem to be a tight fit when I twisted it in the hole....

One more question, what did you do to your blower? It looks like you cut those two extra wires and capped them?

Those wires aren't extras, they're the ones that came attached to the blower.

I utilized an old 3 prong power cord, cut off both ends, and spliced one end into the incoming power. Here's the pic. (The sliver thing is the thermostat, and that's where the power comes in)

The thick black cord is the power cord. I spliced black to black, white to white and green to ground.

[IMG]

[/IMG]

On the end that you're referring to, I spliced the wires into the ones coming out of the blower. I added a ground wire,(which is attached underneath one of the bracket screws) and spliced it into the ground wire from the power cord.

The blower pic is mis-leading, as there are actually 3 wire nuts,(the 3rd one is hidden), one for each incoming connection. Make sure that you use wire-nuts to splice, and use the correct size.

Hope this helps!

RickDel · #11 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 02:01 PM

Skinsfan1311, Thanks for the new pic. I got my blower wired up today and it seems to be working fine. I'm actually a little surprised at how much air it pushes!

Do you have yours wired into your thermostat to cycle on and off with the kegerator, or does it run 24/7? I believe it's designed to be able to run 24/7, but not sure (the manual doesn't include much info).

Thanks Again

(the only thing I need to do now is determine which tubing to use to for my beer lines running to the tower. I posted a few requests for info on some HVAC sites and I asked for advise on what's the best insulated tubing, but I haven't had any luck - can't use PVC because my run will have a strange "S" angle and I don't think I can make it work with PVC)

Skinsfan1311 · #12 (**permalink**) 06-03-2008, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickDel

Skinsfan1311, Thanks for the new pic. I got my blower wired up today and it seems to be working fine. I'm actually a little surprised at how much air it pushes!

Do you have yours wired into your thermostat to cycle on and off with the kegerator, or does it run 24/7? I believe it's designed to be able to run 24/7, but not sure (the manual doesn't include much info).

Thanks Again

No problem. I'm gland it worked out.

The fan is always running as it's spliced into the incoming power before the thermostat.

It's pretty solid and, (I read elsewhere), that it can run 24/7.