Home Beer Retail Beer Commercial Closed Chemical Systems
Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1

    Default Wiring a Dayton Blower

    I have a Dayton Shaded Pole Blower, Model 2C782, and I am trying to figure out how to wire it up. I have done hours of searching, and haven't been able to find any clear information on this. It has 2 black wires coming out of it. People with this type of fan cut off the end of a computer power cable, and wire it into that. The computer cable has 3 wires, Black, White, and Green.

    How do I know which of the 2 black wires on the Blower are what, and what blower wire goes to which wire on the PC Power Cable?

    Here are some pictures of the blower:


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    247

    Default

    You'll splice it to the black (Hot) and white (Neutral) wires on the power cord... doesn't matter which goes to which on that motor. The green wire in the power cord is an earth ground, there may be a place on the body of the blower to terminate that, but not necessarily. Make sure you get good, isolated splices when dealing with AC current.
    Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut.

    Ernest Hemingway

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    kent, wa.
    Posts
    56

    Default

    jumper is correct, but it is also important to connect the green grounding wire to a clean metal part on the blower case. this is to provide protection in case a defect occurs inside the motor windings. on modern units, there will be a specified grounding point but on an older unit, it won't be so obvious, as electricians were required to think for themselves back in the old days..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Absolutely.....electricians still have to think for themselves...LOL
    Ground IS very important. It provides a low impeadance path to ground so you do not become the "path" to ground. That would be most unfortunate for you and your family.

    As stated before, it does not really matter which wire is "hot" and which is Neutral. Neutral is always white in a residential wiring. If it has been done correctly.

    And, it wouldn't hurt not only to connect to a bare spot on the blower but to also run that green wire back to ground on your outlet box. This would also "bond" the blower to the "system" that is in your home.

    Hope you don't get too confused.

    Mike

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    250

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mcphipps View Post
    Absolutely.....electricians still have to think for themselves...LOL
    Ground IS very important. It provides a low impeadance path to ground so you do not become the "path" to ground. That would be most unfortunate for you and your family.

    As stated before, it does not really matter which wire is "hot" and which is Neutral. Neutral is always white in a residential wiring. If it has been done correctly.

    And, it wouldn't hurt not only to connect to a bare spot on the blower but to also run that green wire back to ground on your outlet box. This would also "bond" the blower to the "system" that is in your home.

    Hope you don't get too confused.

    Mike
    Mike is spot-on.

    That's exactly what I did.

    The power is fed through a grounded power cord,(an old PC line-cord w/the ends cut off) which I spliced into the incoming power cord, (the cord that powers the kegerator).

    The blower comes with 2 wires sticking out. I also bought the matching metal bracket. I hooked a ground wire up to the bracket, by putting it under the screw that holds the bracket down, and the other 2 wires to the wires to the blower wires.

    Here's a pic of the wired blower. Notice the green wires, under the wire nut? Those are the spliced ground wires. I attached a small length of wire under one of the bracket screws, and spliced it into ground from the power cord.



    Here's where I spliced the power cord, into the incoming power supply to the kegerator. Black to black, white to white, green to green, (ground), which ensures that the unit is grounded to our home electrical "system"



    Make sure that you use wire nuts.
    Last edited by Skinsfan1311; 03-27-2010 at 06:29 AM. Reason: added text
    Hail to the Redskins!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    12

    Default

    One more thing......If you do make your connections close to the compressor using wire nuts, you can save yourself some trouble down the road if you wrap the wire nuts with some GOOD electrical tape (3M Super 33+) in the direction that you tighten the nuts (clockwise).
    With the compressor vibrating regularly, these wire nuts can come loose and cause you problems. We wrap all of our connections. (We work in a industrial enviroment and it is absolutley the best thing.)

  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks for the information guys! This helps me alot! There is no designated ground on my blower, so I plan on hooking up a wire from the PC cord to the blower, like you guys mentioned. My question is, does it have to be to bare metal? All metal surfaces on my blower are painted. Should I scrape off the paint where I want to make the ground? I was thinking of scraping off some of the paint on the blower housing, and soldering it to the ground wire to that point. Would that be ok?

  8. #8

    Default

    Also, Skinsfan1311, where did you get that metal adapter between your blower and the hose? How much was it?

    Thanks,

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    250

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
    Thanks for the information guys! This helps me alot! There is no designated ground on my blower, so I plan on hooking up a wire from the PC cord to the blower, like you guys mentioned. My question is, does it have to be to bare metal? All metal surfaces on my blower are painted. Should I scrape off the paint where I want to make the ground? I was thinking of scraping off some of the paint on the blower housing, and soldering it to the ground wire to that point. Would that be ok?
    I'm not sure if it has to be bare metal. I put the wire on the bracket, under one of the mounting screws. I didn't scrape any paint but, if it makes you feel better, I'm sure that it wouldn't hurt.

    Quote Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
    Also, Skinsfan1311, where did you get that metal adapter between your blower and the hose? How much was it?

    Thanks,
    Lowes. I'm pretty sure it was in the plumbing dept, near the bulk hose and stuff. They had a bunch of fittings. I took the blower with me, and tried a few 'til I found one that fit. I don't recall if the outlet of the blower is threaded, (and I don't think that it is), but that didn't matter. The pipe is such a good fit, the I just stuck it in the outlet, and screwed it in anyway. It's a pretty snug fit.

    Don't forget to take the blower with you. I think the adapter cost a couple of bucks.

    Good luck!
    Hail to the Redskins!

  10. #10

    Default

    Thanks for all of your help! After fiddling with it the blower for awhile, I found that the blower is dead. I ended up buying a new one from Grainger, which has amazing customer service BTW. My old blower was discontinued, so I bought the replacement, which is the 1TDN2.

    PSC Blower, 115 Volt - OEM Specialty Blowers - Blowers - HVACR : Grainger Industrial Supply

    I wired it up like you guys told me, and it works, but it doesn't seem to blow much air. It is rated at 12 CFM, which I know isn't much, do you guys think that is enough to cool a tower? What are you guys running?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    2,794

    Default

    I just want to know who at Dayton decided that pole blower was a good name for a product.
    ____________________________________________
    Our beer, which commeth in barrels, hallowed be thy drink
    Thy will be drunk, I will be drunk, at home as it is in the tavern
    ____________________________________________


    Home Brew IPA

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Willis, Mi
    Posts
    781

    Default

    "I wired it up like you guys told me, and it works, but it doesn't seem to blow much air. It is rated at 12 CFM, which I know isn't much, do you guys think that is enough to cool a tower? What are you guys running?"

    If it's the standard insulated tower on top of your standard half barrel kegerator, 1 (one) CFM is more than enough.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    250

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
    Thanks for all of your help! After fiddling with it the blower for awhile, I found that the blower is dead. I ended up buying a new one from Grainger, which has amazing customer service BTW. My old blower was discontinued, so I bought the replacement, which is the 1TDN2.

    PSC Blower, 115 Volt - OEM Specialty Blowers - Blowers - HVACR : Grainger Industrial Supply

    I wired it up like you guys told me, and it works, but it doesn't seem to blow much air. It is rated at 12 CFM, which I know isn't much, do you guys think that is enough to cool a tower? What are you guys running?
    It's plenty enough to cool a tower. It doesn't take much.
    Hail to the Redskins!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    250

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cubby_swans View Post
    I just want to know who at Dayton decided that pole blower was a good name for a product.
    Probably the same genious who named this town.

    Hail to the Redskins!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Note:
Micro Matic’s Draft Beer Discussion forum is a public service which allows our members to share their draft beer knowledge and for visitors to view their discussions. While Micro Matic's Dispense Institute instructors and knowledgeable staff are often participates in the forum, Micro Matic does not attempt to verify information posted by members. The information which members post are personal views, and may not reflect the views of Micro Matic. Micro Matic takes no responsibility and assumes no liability for any information posted by members, or results that occur from the information. Micro Matic reserves the right to monitor, remove or edit content at its discretion.