Danby DKC645BLS Temperature Control Bypass

[pltnm9]

I have read through this forum multiple times. I want to bypass the temperature control unit with an external unit. I have not purchased of as of yet. The threads I have read always seem to get hijacked and it becomes very frustrating reading page after page. I have no problems rewiring the Danby as long as I can get instructions or diagrams. I am looking for a good model temperature controller, prefer digital and the instructions to install it on the Danby. Having the digital display on the Danby would be nice just to know its on and a general temperature reading but it is not a necessity. The most important part is that my precious homebrew is at the proper serving temperature. If anyone could suggest a model and supply the instructions I would be very grateful. Trust me I have searched the forums and just want a simple answer in one place. Just tell me the model you have and how to install it. I have located the control unit on the Danby, it is on the back on the bottom near the compressor. please and thanks!

[pismo10]

Buy this

Amazon.com: Johnson Controls A19AAT-2C Freezer Temperature Controller: Kitchen & Dining

1) Remove the red positive/+ wire from the tab on the compressor.
2) Make another power cord, the small prong is the + wire you need.
3) Put a tab on the end of the new wire from the small prong
4) Plug the new tab onto the tab on the compressor
5) Plug the new power cord into the remote thermostat you bought and plug it in. Plug the Danby's original power cord into the same outlet/ext cord
6) You are done

You do not need to touch the control board
You do not need to cut any wires/anything
This bypasses all that
Quickly and easily totally reversible
The built in thermometer still works.

Enjoy

[garretty]

Hi Pismo,

I have read on this board about adding resistors and hardwiring external temp controllers into the danby controller board. The procedure you have outlined seems to be the best. I have an purchased an external temp control *JC A19*. I have also purchased a three prong extension cord, cut off the female end and have it ready to wire directly into the compressor and plug into the external temp controller. If I understand your post correctly, the final configuration will have the following characteristics:

1. Plug the JC A19 into the wall.
2. Plug a homemade cord into the JC A19 (the other end of which is wired into the Danby compressor) using your instructions above.
3. Plug the original Danby cord into a seperate outlet as the JC A19.
4. The built in temp display still functions.

The attached photo is the out of the box wiriing. My compressor has two equal sized prongs, one with a red wire and another with two white wires. If you could satisfy the simpleton in me and explain where the 3 wires in the new extension cord attach to the compressor and how I need to reconfigure the out of the box wiring on the compressor I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
garretty
2012-06-10_12-32-40_881.jpg

[pismo10]

Replace the red tabbed wire on the compressor with the wire on the new cord from the small prong. The new cord has a polarized plug and the small prong is the one you need, the hot one. One wire only. The white and green ground will be handled by the original Danby power cord. Very easy. Pull off that red tab and put on the new one attached to the new cord. Plug in both the new cord (thru the thermostat) and the original Danby power cord into the same outlet.

[garretty]

Works like a champ. Thanks Pismo. Cold beer. Now I have to figure out how to keep the beer in the tower cold.

This is by far the easiest way to add an external temperature controller to the Danby.

[pismo10]

Good to hear.

I got rid of the tower and drilled holes thru the front door and put 3 taps thru the front door so all the hoses are cold. CO2 tank inside as well. Works good. If I were to do it over I would only do two taps thru the door.

[lavoo]

Pismo10,

Your solution for a compressor bypass seems simple and reversible. I am not sure as I read other posts how many people are heading that way. Couple questions or clarifications points for me to gain confidence (apologies for non-proper electrical terms):

1)I believe the hot of the original danby power cord is split into two, one goes to compressor the other to I think the control board?

2)By replacing only the hot that goes to the compressor with the new hot cord from the JC A19 you are essentially using the negative and ground of the original power cord to complete your power circuit from the JC? Which is why it is important to plug it into the same outlet, so that the two hots coming back on the same negative eventually meet back up?

3)I have a battery back up I use so that the temperatures do not get reset on the danby during short power outages. Not sure but I think the JC or Brew Edge might benefit from the battery back up as well? It has several outlets. Seems that would work similarly to the one outlet concept???

4)What did you do with the ground and negative of the new cord? tape them off? Twist things? just cut them off?
Or how about the hot you pull off the compressor?

5)I have read several suggestions on how to run the probe into the Danby. Not sure I saw how you did yours? I tend to like reversible options, but not completely averse to other cool options.

I have gotten by with the resistor on the probe fix, but the defrost cycle drives me crazy. Using the resistor was also reversible, so that was cool. My danby is old enough that warranty is not an issue, but reversible fixes also seem to be fairly easy upgrades. Have also installed a blower and hose up to tower, also a huge improvement. Came through the CO2 hole with the power for the blower, use a plastic pipe from the blower to the tip of tower with extra insulation, all reversible and easy to do without taking too much apart.

Thanks for your repeated efforts on your bypass option. And thanks for any insight you can offer.

[KillianBoy]

lavoo,
Can I ask what about the defrost cycle drives you crazy? If it is what I think and your happy with the resistor trick I might have a cheaper alternative.
KB

[lavoo]

lavoo,
Can I ask what about the defrost cycle drives you crazy? If it is what I think and your happy with the resistor trick I might have a cheaper alternative.
KB

If the defrost cycle hits late Saturday afternoon, foam all night. And since it is hard to predict when it might hit, that is trouble. For now I often unplug the thing for 10 minutes the morning of a night I am having guests and need good keg pours. Theory being that it resets the defrost cycle timer or counter or whatever. But that trick can be forgotten easily. I suppose I could get a timer that turns the whole thing off once a day for 10 minutes or so, but then I think the danby would reset the temp to 42 or whatever the high point is. So then do I get a resistor that knocks 42 down to a good temp? Anyways, long answer to your question, and now I am mostly thinking out loud.

Thanks for any help.

[KillianBoy]

lavoo,
Timer would be my solution, 10 minutes is way to short off time to shut off. what you can do is set the timer to turn off 1+ hour in the early morning (this keeps the plate from icing over), then a little <1 hour about 1 hour before you drink, this should keep the defrost at bay while you drink and keep the unit cold before you drink.
Also I think the resistor trick changes both bottom and top not just the top, I think the differential remains the same, if the stock was say 38-43 by adding the resistor it goes from 35-40. I'd try the timer and turn it off longer and see how that helps.
KB

[lavoo]

lavoo,
Timer would be my solution, 10 minutes is way to short of time to shut off. what you can do is set the timer to turn off 1+ hour in the early morning (this keeps the plate from icing over), then a little <1 hour about 1 hour before you drink, this should keep the defrost at bay while you drink and keep the unit cold before you drink.
Also I think the resistor trick changes both bottom and top not just the top, I think the differential remains the same, if the stock was say 38-43 by adding the resistor it goes from 35-40. I'd try the timer and turn it off longer and see how that helps.
KB

Seems a straight forward idea, pretty simple. I have a decision to make between your fairly cheap simple idea and Pismo10's direction, buy a temp controller, but still easy idea. I am somewhat concerned that defrost or off cycles release CO2 in the line and therefor first pull trouble.

I have some hope that the new temp controller would improve first pull, but not sure of that. WIth a fan into the tower, the tower insulated and a constant temp from the new controller, does the line stay cold enough?

Thanks for your input KB, I await some info from Pismo10 to really dial in his concepts then I will decide. I may just try the timer (probably have everything I need in the house already) and see how it goes, if I don't like it I can move into the new temp controller.

The information and input from users on this sight is pretty amazing stuff.

lavoo

[pismo10]

The wires I did not use, I taped them off. The old cord handles hot for the remaining fridge electronics (temp gauge, etc) and all neutral/grounds. The new cord handles hot to the compressor only. I put the probe in thru the hole in the back for the CO2 line and put it on top of a keg, keep it high where it is warmer. I keep a thermometer up there too. I have no defrost cycle so I have no problem with that. Nothing ever builds up.

[lavoo]

All good stuff. Thanks to pismo10 and KillianBoy for all the info.

lavoo

[KillianBoy]

lavoo,
"WIth a fan into the tower" do you plan on putting a fan in the tower? You said you have a blower and hose blowing air up tower this should be sufficient.
"I am somewhat concerned that defrost or off cycles release CO2 in the line", what concerns you about this? Every kegerator will have a on/off cycle, the off cycle won't cause much CO2 in line if system is properly balanced, don't be concerned about keeping air temperature from tower to keg the same it can't be done, just make sure you have air flow to shank and return flow to unit, balance and you should be good. Just try and turn off unit for 30-40 minutes, turn on wait 1 hour and see how everything is, if it doesn't help buy a timer to turn unit off 15 minutes every hour (basically what a temperature controller does) and see if that helps but the turn off trick before drinking should work fine
KB

[greecey]

My danby is displaying EE and just beeping long and steady when i plug it in. If I try and install this temperature control will it bypass the top circuit board and display completely? that is my goal.