Bm23 that worked fine no longer gets cold after cleaning and moving

[iamjk123]

Guys I really need some help with this one. We worked our butts off cleaning up a Beverage Air BM23 that was in horrible shape, the only thing it had going for it was that it got cold. My friend and I spent 2 weekends scrubbing, derusting, painting, sealing, and all of the above then plugged it in like it was christmas morning and santa never came. It wont get cold anymore and it is making me sick.

Fans all work fine, the compressor is warm, I keep hearing the click like the relay is trying to kick in the compressor then like 10 seconds later it will kick off and try again.

It is a newer r134 coolant unit

Yesterday I looked back there and got really excited because i found a wire that looked like it got ripped off:





It looked like a ground that came loose but i put a ring terminal back on it and put it back on and it still doesn't get cold. Any idea what this wire goes to? It doesnt seem like it was factory.

Can you guys help me troubleshoot this thing? My fear is that the compressor is done but I want to see if it is a cheaper option first because I am not dumping 500 bucks into this thing.

[pvs6]

If it kicks off it's likely the thermo kill switch. a hard start kit isn't that expensive.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pro-3-in-1-tj90rco410-ap4503017.html

Then again I move one once and it was just enough to cause a rupture in the copper tubing to cause cooling loss. Again not real expensive to fix on this unit. Find the leak plug or replace it and recharge. Recharge 100- $200, at most.

[THE ICEMAN]

That wire is just the ground wire - it should run whether it is connected or not.
You can try using a 3 in 1 as pvs6 suggested but if it doesn't start, your compressor is dead. In looking at the data plate on the compressor it looks like your unit was made in 1999 - about 17 years old. That's a pretty good life for one of those small compressors.


THE ICEMAN

[iamjk123]

If it kicks on with the 3 and 1 is that a permanent fix?

Also is there a walk through on how to install that?

[THE ICEMAN]

It is permanent if you want it to be. The alternative is to get the original start relay, capacitor & overload for that compressor, model number AZA0395YXA. There is a wiring diagram on the 3 in 1 & if you go with original parts it is just wire for wire. If you can find the 3 in 1 for a 1/2 h.p. it would be better but the one you found will serve the purpose. The 1/2 h.p. rated one is oversized for that compressor but seems to be a bit more durable. Once again, if the compressor does not start with either new original components or a 3 in 1 you have a compressor that is locked up.


THE ICEMAN

[iamjk123]

It is permanent if you want it to be. The alternative is to get the original start relay, capacitor & overload for that compressor, model number AZA0395YXA. There is a wiring diagram on the 3 in 1 & if you go with original parts it is just wire for wire. If you can find the 3 in 1 for a 1/2 h.p. it would be better but the one you found will serve the purpose. The 1/2 h.p. rated one is oversized for that compressor but seems to be a bit more durable. Once again, if the compressor does not start with either new original components or a 3 in 1 you have a compressor that is locked up.


THE ICEMAN

Thanks man, ill let ya'll know how it turns out. Cross your fingers for us lol

[iamjk123]

Its alivveeeeeee!!!! Thanks guys

[iamjk123]

Whys this happening?

[iamjk123]

It's also blowing alot of air out of the temperature control hole and it feels like the monster fan inside is barely blowing anything.

[pvs6]

Some frost build up is not uncommon especially if it's been off for a few days with the door open a lot of the time. The warm humid air that settles in the unit in that time turns to frost as it gets colder. As long as it's cooling well and the frost doesn't grow to fast you don't have to worry. Just note that opening the door to check on frost or for any reason allows more moist warm air inside which will then turn to frost.

[iamjk123]

Some frost build up is not uncommon especially if it's been off for a few days with the door open a lot of the time. The warm humid air that settles in the unit in that time turns to frost as it gets colder. As long as it's cooling well and the frost doesn't grow to fast you don't have to worry. Just note that opening the door to check on frost or for any reason allows more moist warm air inside which will then turn to frost.

Its also getting alot of condensation in the back left corner of the top aswell as the back of the machine in the same corner. Does this have anything to do with the air rushing out the temperature control ane not making it over to the fan?

[djc]

Have you checked the door deals with a flashlight inside? Any gaps let in outside air which has moisture in it.

[THE ICEMAN]

You have either temperature control problems or your unit is low on refrigerant. The amount of humidity is not a factor. Your unit is either running too long & not shutting off due to the temp control not working properly or the unit is low on refrigerant & the evaporator is only partially filled with refrigerant. Also, there should be a temp control in place of that hole & not just a hole. The air should be blowing out the back of the evaporator & not some hole. This could be due to the coils freezing over. You need to shut the unit of & let it defrost completely. Then turn the unit on & let it come down to temp. You will need a reliable thermometer, preferably one with a remote lead, to check to see at what temp the unit cycles on & off. Avoid opening & closing the door often.


THE ICEMAN

[iamjk123]

If i purchase a new termperature control, how do i get in there to install it?

[iamjk123]

Im replacing both the door seal and the temp control. If this doesnt fix it im done dumping money into it. If anybody else was wondering how to get to hthe temp control and replace it, remove the screws in that back wall and it will come down.