I'm a computer guy with no electrical skills myself, and my blower mod was simple. In my Danby, I used a PC power supply, and it's fan, for my blower. I didn't see the need for a seperate fan, I just left one or two of the holes in the power supply un-caulked to create circulation in the lower part of the box. The cap on the tower stays on, that way the air returns to the unit from the tower and also increases circulation.
I spent less thatn $15 on my 'blower' mod. Look at the last few posts in this thread.....
can I use this blower to cool my tower?
And the resistor basically changes the signal from the temp sensor, allowing the unit to continue to cool beyond what you have it 'set' to. The temp sensor is basically inaccurate, which is why it won't actually get as cold as you set it to out of the box. If Danby had allowed us to set it to something like 32 or 33, it would probably get to 37 or 38. Or if Danby had simply made their sensor accurate, no resistor would be necessary. Lunkhead, from this site, has determined that using a 150K resistor in his unit makes the display accurate and allows the unit to cool 1-2 degrees below 'stock' settings, meaning that if it shows 37, it IS 37. But each unit likely has a different level of sensor accuract, so a 150K resistor might not get your Danby cold enough. I would stick with the 33k resistor. You're sure to get it cold enough that way, just realize your temp readout on the unit will be nowhere near correct. You'll have to play with that. You might find that that a setting of 40 on your Danby will actually cool it off to 34 or 35.